To the east of Naples lie Pompei and Herculaneum, the most well-preserved cities of classical antiquity. The brooding presence of the still-active volcano Vesuvius in the background serves as a constant reminder of what happened on that day in 79 AD when clouds of ash gushed angrily skywards. Most of the finds from the excavations at the sites are on show in Naples’ spectatcular National Archeological museum.

Capri, facing the Bay of Naples’ eastern prong, is an island of vast natural beauty and enchantment. The only downside is that unfortunately milions of other people think so too. Off-season you will be able to get a much better feel for Capri, and spend less money staying or eating there. Its best-known sights are the faraglioni rocks which jut dramatically out of the sea and the Grotta Azzurra, a grotto whose mesmerising blue interior is a result of the sunlight reaching it through the water.

Guarding the other prong of the Bay of Naples is Ischia, which unlike Capri, offers a more rough and ready island experience. Famous for its thermal springs since Roman times, the prettiest spot on the island is the former fishing village of Sant’Angelo on the south of the island. Less known and less spectacular is Procida, the island closest to Naples. Come here for a more peaceful bout of lazing.

Back on the mainland across from Capri is the Amalfi coast with its sheer jaw-dropping and hair-raising beauty, huddled as it is along a long and winding coast of rocky cliffs. Sorrento is a classic resort town and its old centre retains much southern charm and has a lively evening scene of locals enjoying the breeze and passing the time in its main piazzas. Positano, though small, is more cosmpolitan and lined with exclusive clothing boutiques and some good beaches which rarely get crowded. Villages before and after it (such as Furore and Atrani) are recommended since the views are equally stunning and the prices more contained. Amalfi is the largest town and in many ways the highlight of the coast with its houses literally grappled on to a wide cleft in the cliffs; Ravello (a 25 minute bus ride from Amalfi) stands like a jewel in the crown; 335 metres up one of the coast’s mountains and offers unrivalled views and a more refined feel than any of the other cities.