One of those first summer tourists was painter and intellectual Santiago Rusi?ol, who was close friends with other artists like Ramon Casas and Pablo Picasso. Rusi?ol's presense and infamous parties were largely responsible for giving Sitges the bohemian, open-minded air it has today. When he died, he left his house and the artwork in it to the town; it's now a museum beside the main church and is open to the public.

Artists are still drawn to Sitges, and there are several galleries in the centre. Nevertheless, most people who come here these days come looking for one thing: the beach. A dozen separate beaches (platjas in Catalan) are carved into the coast here. The Platja de San Sebasti?n, north of the church, is a great family beach, while the nearby Platja de la Fragata is for beach sports like volleyball. The Platja de la Bassa Rodona is known as a gay beach, and the beaches farther south are quieter and popular with families.

Though many of these beaches get rather narrow during high tide, they're considered some of Catalunya's best because of the unique atmosphere here. Sitges has managed to steer clear of high-rise apartments and flashy neon tourism, and the waterfront looks much as it did 50 years ago or more.

After a day in the sun, spend the evening out on 'Sin Street,' the heart of Sitges' nightlife. Sitges is one of the most popular gay destinations in Europe, and there are several gay-oriented bars and clubs here, though most are for partiers of all persuasions. The short pedestrian 'Sin Street' gets jam packed on summer nights. Come early to sit on the sidewalk terraces for a drink or light supper, and stay until late to dance in the clubs that line the street. This street is also the centre of the action during Carnaval (Mardi Gras), when Sitges outdoes itself with a fantastic parade and days of partying.